But what made patron-chef Antonio Pappalardo approach gourmet pizza some ten years ago (when he was not yet 19!)? Why did he leave the calm path of Campanian classics, given he was born in Castellammare di Stabia, though always based in Brescia?

Clearly, he’s the kind of person who has both the natural humbleness of the hard worker and the well-deserved pride of someone who knows he has brilliant ideas: «Let’s start by saying that when I first opened La Cascina my approach was different. I was aiming for a classic pizzeria-cum-restaurant like many others, with good but not excellent pizza, (farmed) fish, and so on». 

But it was an unoriginal, old format: «It was a stale model. Plus we were small and new. We had to compete with giants who were already using this format to make big numbers. Lower prices were the only way to be in that market: but how were we to keep some decent raw materials? I had no real opportunities. So, instead of trying to survive, after three years I decided to take my risks».

The risk was to focus on quality – it may seem absurd now, but indeed at the time it was a risk and Pappalardo was in fact one of the pioneers. Plus there was one more problem: he had no experience.

«I started to study: I attended the Università della Pizza, which was essential. I worked hard on dough, topping, leavening. I was very curious. I often dined in great restaurants, so I could learn. I learnt the basics of pastry-making, then I worked at Alle Rose, on Lake Garda, which at the time was a prominent restaurant, so as to improve my cooking techniques. I met producers in person to understand their products». 

So out of whit, perspicacity and merit he started using fine dining concepts at La Cascina dei Sapori, the necessary step to create a contemporary pizzeria.

He still does so: «We take care of every detail, trying to improve service and hospitality». 

All this while the average meal is 25 euros… «Ten, actually seven years ago I wondered if clients would understand. Today I know they do, of course». The restaurant is always full.


Carlo Passera
source: http://www.identitagolose.it/news/view.php?id=68

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