Peter Brunel is also in this list. His approach, however, is different: he offers a sort of non-pizza, a nikkei pizza, «a concept that starts from different traditions but then blends with made in Italy ingredients».
Brunel knows the lesson of his friend Renato Bosco, «number one when it comes to dough, while Simone Padoan has no match with topping». The base is completely different from the classic one: «Two parts of powdered quinoa and one part of white flour, with almost 50% water. You let it rest, then you cut it out».
It is then fried very quickly and later dehydrated in the oven, «it goes in the drier at the moment of serving it», so as to obtain a hot and crispy disc. Below, stressing again the connection with Peruvian tradition, a spiral of cream made with an emulsion of white corn: a game of soft and crunchy textures.
The topping is made with fresh tuna marinated in a soup of miso, grated raw daikon, red onion and citrus fruit juice, cooked on a high heat «so it recalls the taste of oven baked pizza».
Then there’s hot red onion (put in brine with salt, sugar and vinegar, cooked at 85°C for 35 minutes, so as not to break the fibres and keep it crispy), guacamole (a very ripe avocado with lemon juice, seed oil and spices), some more white corn sauce, sweet chilli pepper sauce (boiled with onion, ginger, honey, apple and rice vinegar, then blended and strained).
The chef is also studying a new version with sturgeon instead of tuna.
At Borgo San Jacopo Brunel also serves a pizza-pudding, «a totally different concept». He cooks the flour and a vegetal mix (cauliflower or daikon or celeriac), and then processes it in the bimby.
They become a base later enriched with celeriac and potato cream, mozzarella, semi-candied tomatoes, blanched squid, marinated scallop, oyster leaves, then seasoned with powdered salicornia. Final step: the broth outside is slightly burnt.
Carlo Passera
source: http://newsletter.identitagolose.it/email.php?id=634
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