These are the words of Nino Di Costanzo. When analysing the relationship between fine dining and the new Italian pizza he’s a not-to-be-missed point of reference.

The chef from Ischia, working at Danì Maison has been working with dough for a long time now, first in synergy with the Salvo brothers, and now with Pepe. He says: «It’s great because I like matching a chef’s techniques with a product like pizza. I believe you shouldn’t overdo the topping. But with technical and cooking experience you can offer an improved product».

There’s a clear distinction between roles: «I would never interfere with the dough. It’s a pizzaiolo’s responsibility. I can only discuss the pairings, that is to say whether a particular seasoning is better with a white or whole wheat dish».

The result of this synergy is «an extraordinary evolution in the world of pizza, which has grown in quality. We must thank many people, starting from Enzo Coccia, who was the first to show a new vision: having pizza meet local excellences». 

Attention though, «I believe this growth should set some limits: that is to say pizza chefs should not abandon their world or they risk doing a mess. Pizza must remain a simple dish».

But without barriers. Di Costanzo is surely connected with the tradition of his region, but he does look around: «In the past few years many different “schools” have grown. This broadening of the borders is certainly good and has had excellent results too. In other words: even when you eat at someone who has a different vision from the Neapolitan one, take Simone Padoan or Renato Bosco, you can have an extraordinary pizza». 

Of course Neapolitan and gourmet pizza are «different products. In Campania we have a special view of the base, but the world changes and this transformation cannot be demonised. There’s plenty to do, many options available: I would love it, for instance, if someone recuperated the double-cooking tradition, frying first and then cooking in the wood oven, or vice versa».

Carlo Passera
source: http://newsletter.identitagolose.it/email.php?id=628

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