This is his reply: «For more than a reason. Firstly, pizza is nice in that it can be a single-course menu. Moreover, you can play with your creativity in a thousand different ways. It’s stimulating. For a hundred years or so it has remained almost unchanged. Today we have overcome that logic. The potential is enormous».

To be honest, Alciati adds, not everyone fully exploits the potential: «Of course my colleagues mostly focus on what goes on top of the pizza. For the very reason that even topping has evolved in a long time». 

He looks at it from a different point of view: «I was born a pastry-chef, I also and mostly pay attention to leavening…».

It is not by chance that we’re discussing these topics with Alciati: a few weeks ago the chef tested himself with a total-pizza-menu:
«I interpreted each pizza I served as a course in a tasting menu, reducing its size. The first course was a “new take” on margherita with tomato mayonnaise and basil essence. A second course was a pizza with beef fillet and Cetara anchovies, an interpretation of a classic dish of mine». 

Encore with the cake: one of the classics at Alciati’s is a peach “stuffed” with amaretto biscuits and chocolate which becomes a topping, «because my idea is to use the cooked dough and cover it with a recipe».

You’re in love with pizza. Where will you eat it next? «I’ve heard good things about the new Gusto Madre in Alba. I’ve already booked a table».

Carlo Passera
source: http://newsletter.identitagolose.it/email.php?id=612

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