While a few years ago it was mostly a matter of focusing on the quality of pizza so as to improve it, and hence it was logic that one would add, and enrich, today fine dining pizzerias must have the same approach – once again – as fine dining restaurants, and follow their most recent trend.

So the goal now is to aim for pure flavours, removing frills and serving a dough+topping formula that is straightforward, almost didactic (pizza speaks to the people, it’s democratic), but also includes a series of inspirations, whether aromatic or not.

Our head was full of these thoughts at the end of a recent visit to I Tigli, chez Simone Padoan. This is the news: after so many innovations in terms of seasoning, the pizzaiolo from San Bonifacio is once again working on dough.

And he does so by presenting new types – a total of seven – thanks to the use of different cereals.

«This choice comes from my desire to always move ahead – he explained – I wondered: why not study different types of “pairing dough” so to speak, that is to say dough that can give aromatic notes that are particularly suitable for a specific type of topping».

A sort of pairing indeed, as a sommelier would say: the perfect disc for the seasoning that will go on top.

«First of all, we prepared a Roman focaccia with corn and sunflower seeds, because I was looking for the perfect match for a pizza Polenta e baccalà [plus spinach and pine nuts en papillote]. Then the research continued». 

Any difficulty? «Managing the “rotation” of all the different leavenings». Prospects? «I’m thinking of a dough that can also include durum wheat». Keep in touch.

During our tasting, the same dough we mentioned – de-li-cious – was also paired with red prawn ceviche with fennel and orange and burrata. Then came a barley focaccia with fiordilatte, turnip tops en papillote, pan-fried sweetbreads with butter and lemon; then a dough with rye and oats, with fiordilatte, cabbage stewed with soy, ginger and mirin, pork jowl sautéed with Croatina wine. Simply yummy.

The peak, however, was perhaps Porca l’oca, a pan brioche dough enriched with sunflower seeds and white and black sesame, topped with goose baked in a wood oven, lard, foie gras and a quince compote: what a blast.


Carlo Passera
source: http://www.identitagolose.it/news/view.php?id=57

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