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RASSEGNA STAMPA WEB
come e dove Petra arriva in tavola
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come e dove Petra arriva in tavola
Alex Coppari and his pizzas in ferment


Alessandro Coppari, since 2004 at the helm of “cut-to-measure” pizzeria Mezzometro in Senigallia – while his brother Alessio is in charge of the Jesi branch – is a picture of contemporary pizza and of a pizzaiolo who doesn’t just knead pizza, but also carefully and thoroughly studies every ingredient, both in the dough and in the garnish...
 

There’s more: he is an expert of the local area and as such he makes use of its excellent products, understanding their use, the pairings, their potential.

For some time now Coppari has studied fermentation in his lab, and this has resulted in precious ingredients for his pizzas and beyond. Some of his new pizzas, which can be ordered "by the metre" or in the classic format, are a result of this. As in the case of the brave Um-Amami with mozzarella fiordilatte, katsuobushi, ginger, lemon thyme and fermented onion. A real concentrate of “umami” which lands on a pizza made by the metre. After some seven months of work on fermentation, Alessandro has decided to present also a new version of his Uaau!, a soft steamed roll made with milk, which in the autumn replaces porchetta with a sausage cooked at low temperature, turnip tops, fermented onions and a fondue of Blu cheese from Lessinia.

The menu now also includes Suasantità, a declaration of love for the local region and has, among its ingredients, the sweet onion from Suasa, pecorino from Montefeltro, on top of mozzarella fiordilatte del Casolare and San Marzano tomato PDO, followed by Panchamama – a "rimpizza", that is to say a pizza filled with pork belly cooked at a low temperature and glazed with honey, with fermented cabbage, mustard and rocket – made of rich, round flavours, like a winter cuddle.

«I like fermented products because they nourish my love for research, for the study of raw materials and of the ways in which they change over time. I’m working on classic fermentations, for instance with onion or cabbage, and international ones too, like kimchi which I’d like to use on my hot pizzas – Coppari explains. – I believe that for a pizzaiolo it is essential to present excellence both in traditional pizzas, which must be impeccable, and in the specialties that best represent him, so as to express his creativity. 

For me it is important to use local raw materials, Slow Food presidia from the Marche, as well as ingredients that have little to do with my culture, which I enjoy adapting. I believe that those who, like me, run a restaurant far away from large cities, have two duties towards their clients: the first is to guarantee a high quality offer, and the second is audacity, so as to offer guests something different, that will open horizons and present, through the dish, the infinite versality of a product like pizza, which is both made in Italy and universal».


Article by Identità Golose
source: https://www.identitagolose.it/news/?id=245

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