On top of established places such as Sa Scolla in Baradili and Massimo Bosco in Tempio, there’s a growing new “signature” place where the signature belongs in fact to a chef, not a pizzaiolo: Pierluigi Fais, patron at Josto in Oristano, and at his new, very interesting Josto in Cagliari.

The latter is the second-born restaurant, after a pizzeria, namely Framento, opened in December 2015 in the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 82 (Tel. +39 070 6670370, framento.it. Open daily, only in the evening).

A chef’s approach to pizza follows a now established script: excellent toppings created by him, while the dough is handed to a serious professional in the field. In this case, Valerio Luperi. While he’s by the oven, we find Fais’s partner, Isa, and his two sisters Chiara and Elisabetta in the dining room.

We had already tasted Framento’s delicious pizzas at Degustibus, the first edition last May, organised on Cagliari’s Poetto beach by Michele Cabras. At the time, we wrote: "(Framento uses) stone milled whole-wheat flour plus local semolina and mother yeast (in Sardinian, su framentu. Left acting for 30 hours): «We make pizza with local ingredients, but with a modern style».

The edge is crispy, the baking takes place in an electric oven ["low" temperature, 360°C, and hence longer baking, up to 4 minutes]. There’s also a high-hydration focaccia: we tasted a lovely slice with rocket, coppa from Roberto Pusole and honey vinaigrette".

Having tasted such delicious products, of course we had to pay a special visit to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 82: the restaurant is large and a little loud, halfway between traditional pizzeria and modern bistro; the selection of beers is good.

There are a few "antipizza", that is to say a quick entrées, and then a selection of a dozen pizzas, including some classics, always available, and some pizzas "of the day" described on the large blackboard behind the counter.

Among the classics, we couldn’t miss (following Pietro Pio Pitzalis’s recommendation, later confirmed by Fais himself) Napoli, with tomato, fiordilatte, capers from Selargius, anchovies from the Sea of Cantabria, extra virgin olive oil and oregano: delicious, rich but perfectly balanced.

Pitzalis also recommended (and good he did) Immuginazione, another "classic" with fiordilatte, smoked muggine from Cabras, young pecorino cheese, withered cherry tomatoes and mint: ingenious and very elegant. Among the pizzas of the day we chose Muriga Muriga (fiordilatte, Muriga Muriga courgettes, Pusole sausage from Baunei, pecorino Marchesa), for a craveable yet balanced finale.

«Our pizzas end in the oven but start in the kitchen. Our choices are sustainable, we choose and select our products with great care», says Fais. We confirm without any doubt.


Carlo Passera
source: http://www.identitagolose.it/news/view.php?id=104

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