In fact, Lovatel senioris proud of Lovatel junior, whose name is Denis, born 1975, a passion for cooking he first expressed by dining in good restaurants in Milan and then, when he returned home, by continuing the pizza-restaurant activity his father began in Alano di Piave in 1977, adopting, first of all, his dough, which today is the same as then, though with some light correction.
At Da Ezio you have an apparently classic, round pizza, with a dough made with a poolish and a blend of ancient wheat varieties, slow leavening with mother yeast.
During the cooking, the gluten structure breaks and crispy “bubbles” appear on the surface. The result is a fragrant and thin disc, with hills full of air, here and there: absolute lightness dominates, confirmed by numbers: «usually, the dough of a pizza weighs between 250 and 300 grams. In my case it never exceeds 180 grams».
Lovatel sometimes accelerates on creativity. We tasted a delicate Burrata and Prawns (burrata from Andria, tartare of blue prawns from Caledonia and pistachios from Bronte), very elegant and nice, as well as a very vigorous I Frutti della Terra (macadamia nuts, a selection of gorgonzola and certosino cheese, cheek lard made with Cinta senese pigs, pears poached in cabernet wine), with a strong character that is delicately softened by the brilliant touch of the fruit, aromatised with wine.
However, the masterpiece is, in our opinion, Colori Gustosi (tomatoes, heart of burrata from Andria added at the end, taggiasche olives, confit date tomatoes, toasted almonds), a true triumph of flavours dominated by the incredible powerful aroma of the confit tomatoes (soon all of these will also be available for tasting in the new restaurant the Lovatel family will open in Treviso).
Carlo Passera
source: http://newsletter.identitagolose.it/email.php?id=505
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