It’s not a traditional Neapolitan pizza. And it doesn’t aim to be one. After all, imagine Cracco pulling out of the oven a gummy pizza like any ordinary man. In fact, it’s not even a “gastronomic”, “contemporary”, “Padoan-style” pizza: choose whatever term you may prefer, even though there is some influence from the Venetian school.
The dough is basically the Venetian one, 24 hours of leavening with mother yeast and most of all flour rich in fibres (Petra 9, 100% soft whole wheat) which results in a crispy texture on the outside, soft on the inside, and very airy and light. Indeed, the dough is excellent, delicious, it makes you wish for more and more.
And given the disc is very aromatic, it needs a topping that can keep up with it. In this case, Cracco doesn’t follow the gastronomic pizza style (in which toppings are basically a dish per se, to be added at the end, shortly before service); instead, he focuses on a more classic version. But in his own way.
So he doesn’t use a watery tomato purée, but a concentrated version, an explosive San Marzano tomato, but well balanced between sweet and acid notes.
The buffalo milk mozzarella is cut into thick slices, so they remain rather compact, and give the aroma of milk: the disc is pre-cooked in a state-of-the-art electric oven, then seasoned before completing its baking. To finish, dehydrated basil leaves (instead of the debated seeds), and extra virgin olive oil.
On the palate, the ensemble is very well accomplished, and truly delicious, where wheat and tomatoes have the main role. In other words, as we said, it’s a signature version of pizza.
Carlo Passera
source: http://www.identitagolose.it/news/view.php?id=83
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