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come e dove Petra arriva in tavola
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come e dove Petra arriva in tavola
Ciro Oliva: a frezzella for the summer

Ciro Oliva, the fourth generation of pizza chefs at Concettina ai Tre Santi in Sanità, one of the most ancient popular neighbourhoods in Naples, is little over 20 and has an unstoppable energy.

Everything started with his great-grandmother Concettina who in order to earn something extra in the aftermath of the war, as many women in Naples began to knead and fry pizza.

Ever since, the family continued her art, passion and name. While his father Antonio looks after the shop where pizza “a libretta” and fried food “da passeggio” are made, young Ciro controls the new adjacent restaurant where people can sit comfortably and taste pizza seasoned with ingredients selected with care and repeated tastings – a choice of Tradizionali, Storiche, Tipiche and Specialità pizzas – and delicious fried food, paired with wines finely selected, mostly from Campania, and craft beers.

Yet the energy of young Oliva doesn’t stop with the work in the pizzeria, between counter and tables: Ciro is always dynamic and doesn’t hide the fact he wants to become one of the top ten pizza-chefs in Italy.

From his “pizza sospesa” – a baking version of the Neapolitan tradition of leaving a coffee already paid for someone who cannot afford it – including registered trademark and merchandising, to the Fondazione San Gennaro pizza, whose proceedings are given to support the homonymous foundation (with the edge filled with salami and provola and topped with smoked provola, breadcrumbs made with taralli "nzogna e pepe”, basil, POD extra virgin olive oil and “con o senza miracolo”, that is to say Neapolitan Ancient Tomatoes).

Frezzella (see photo) is brilliant and delicious. It is a summer recipe, a new version of the typical “fresella” (a doughnut made with a bread biscuit, soaked in water and seasoned with oil, tomatoes, basil and other ingredients) but made with pizza dough.

Ciro makes the “doughnut” shape with a pastry cutter, cooks it on one side first, so the dough swells, and then cooks it on the other side too, to give the typical biscuit effect.

Seasoned with fresh tomatoes, red tuna, buffalo milk mozzarella, salella ammaccata del Cilento olives, rocket salad, basil and extra virgin olive oil – which Ciro adds generously on the Margherita too – it is truly a perfect summer variation of the classic pizza.

Luciana Squadrilli
source: 
http://newsletter.identitagolose.it/email.php?id=533

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